Martin Lewis: The UK's best cheese 'n' onion crisps, a data-Crunch
I've set out to find the nation's best cheese 'n' onion crisps, with a mass taste test of 44 different packs, sampled by 26 tasters. This is my second data-Crunch – it all started last year, with the glorious best salt 'n' vinegar crisps tasting. Yet some people, strangely (or perhaps more accurately), started to say it couldn't end there, and that I needed do the same with cheese 'n' onion.
Now you may be able to detect a slight bias here. And it's true, I've clenched my jaw (repeatedly – you have to chew) and given in to a follow-up taste test. So I called back the taste-test volunteers, some of whom, staggeringly, were willing to admit they flavour-favour cheese 'n' onion. Tasting done, it's time to reveal the UK's best cheese 'n' onion crisps (of 44 brands tested).
I did have some early concerns about finding enough volunteers after, precious petal that he is, MSE Kit declared he wasn't going to participate because the salt 'n' vinegar taste test had "made his tongue poorly". (He has clearly missed the point of good S&V, that it's so strong it rips off the outer layer of your tongue.) But we powered onward without him, and thankfully the rest of MSE Towers team persevered...
I should also note that, before we started, I ruled out (after asking on social media) all 'cheese & chive' and 'sour cream & onion' crisps, though 'spring onion' was allowed...
The Cheese 'n' Onion Taste Test winner is...
Some honourable munchions...
The big surprise was that a non-cheese 'n' onion crisp came second. Several crisps were vegan by chance – though Kettle's 'Sheese & Red Onion' was vegan by brand and design – and they smashed non-vegan rivals with an average score of 6.6/10 to 5.1/10.
This was a blind taste test conducted by me and 25 other MSE-ers. I know some will ask "how can you blind test a Hula Hoop or Pom Bear?" You'd be surprised, there are more ring-shaped, ridged or thick crisp types than you think (though admittedly only one bear-shaped), so it wasn't so bad, and crushing crisps into a dust and spoon feeding them to our testers would've negated the texture dividend.
Another surprise was that many of our testers were surprised at the end that they'd ranked their unrecognised pre-expected favourites poorly.
Yet let me be plain (well, never need to be plain, if crisps were meant to be plain, vinegar would never have been invented), while we aimed to objectively examine prices, packet colours, calories and more, this is a subjective test as the tasters rated on...
- Overall recommend-ability
- Strength of flavour
Obviously I recognise that taste is personal, so while you may disagree with our results, I hope this may help guide you some towards new brands to try. You never know, they may just be your winner!
Now to rank all 44 brands…
In true MSE style, we've done a deep-dive data-Crunch, so much so the best way to lay it out is via this MSE cheese 'n' onion PDF, available to download (or if you need a more accessible version, there's this Word doc), where we go through the scores, calories, whether they're gluten-free and more.
I should also note that of our group of 26 tasters, only nine professed to be proper cheese 'n' onion fans. If we look purely at their results, you get the same top three, but Craft Tayto moved from third to first, followed by Keogh's and Kettle Vegan Sheese & Onion.
As for my personal thoughts – I felt there was less of a difference between cheese 'n' onion flavours than with salt 'n' vinegar.
Also, while for S&V my top pick was also the overall top pick, it wasn't the same here. The overall winner Keogh's was high up my list, though I had it in fifth. Yet my favourites were Slabs Cheese & Onion (which was the marmite of crisps – if you exclude Marmite crisps, obvs – as it really divided opinion, strange crispy beast it is), followed by Tesco Finest Mature Cheddar & Onion, Savoursmiths Somerset Cheddar & Shallot and Golden Wonder Cheese & Onion.
Four charts & stats on how it stacks up
1. Unlike with salt 'n' vinegar, cost matters a little more
The result of our salt 'n' vinegar taste test was simple: the cheaper crisps scored better. But this isn't the case with cheese 'n' onion. There were lots of different types of posh cheese and onion in the crisps we tasted, but maybe we just have a refined cheese palate at MSE Towers.
However, it's worth noting that the cheapest crisp per portion (Lidl) and the most expensive (Yorkshire Crisps) both got the same overall score, so a good cheese 'n' onion crisp certainly isn't always dictated by price.
We divided the crisps into four categories based on cost per portion – either based on an individual packet or a portion size for a sharing bag.
2. If flavour strength matters to you, some crisps rise up the table
We also got people to rank on strength, and we had some new additions to the podium, with Savoursmith's Somerset Cheddar & Shallot and Yorkshire Crisps' Cheddar & Caramelised Onion Chutney rising to first and second place on strength from overall positions of fourth and 18th.
3. Spring onion is the best onion?
Breaking the crisps down into type of onion, spring onion came out on top. One main bit of feedback was that there was a lack of onion flavour in the crisps, so unsurprisingly, the results were tight – and spring onion came out top.
4. Cheese 'n' onion crisp packets are… green!
Look, everyone knows salt 'n' vinegar are blue packets, cheese 'n' onion green. It's the rule of nature. Sadly, everyone knows that, except for Walkers (though they get it right with Squares). So let's have a look at the pack colour pie chart...
5. A few quirks
So you've got the main conclusions, but there are a few more interesting quirks and titbits about our taste test we can confirm...
- Cheese 'n' onion is divisive. We experienced a level of tribalism we didn't have with salt 'n' vinegar, probably due to the wide variety of types of flavour available. Editor-in-chief MSE Marcus allegedly "almost vomited" at one of my favourite picks (and not because I picked it).
- They are CHEESE ('n' onion). Most tasters said there was a consistent lack of onion flavour in all the crisps we tried – all we got was a hit of cheese (well, unlike S&V, C&O are a bit imbalanced).
- We tried to avoid tastebud overload – 44 is a lot of crisps to taste! To avoid this, all the tasters were spread around the table at the start, so they began with different crisps, all moving clockwise to try and ensure there was no "taste-fatigue bias".
- We had some peculiar testing techniques. The most interesting of them all was MSE Gareth, who decided to take a deep meditative breath into the crisp as part of his rigorous process. MSE Freddie was even caught holding some crisps up to the light... we never quite got to the bottom of why (maybe next time we should add a transparency category).
- We listened to you and included Tayto from the Republic of Ireland. We had lots of comments last time from Tayto lovers, saying the reason it didn't do so well for S&V was because we only got Northern Irish Taytos, and that ones from the Republic were better. This time round, we got both, and our testers just about agreed, but there was a scant 0.04 points between them.
- Most crisp best-befores expire on a Saturday. This is due to the manufacturing working week. Walkers, as an example, starts its manufacturing week on a Sunday, so all of its crisps expire on a Saturday. PS: Do remember best-befores don't mean you can't eat it afterwards.
And finally... go MSE Olivia!
I may provide the flavour to this write-up, but MSE Olivia is the potato – without her, it couldn't happen. She did sterling work, sourcing the crisps (though not saucing them), putting it together, arranging the people, refilling, and doing all the stats behind this for me (and equally she is an S&V not a C&O lover, so has great taste too).